Calligraphy Equipment: Paper


Most medieval manuscripts were written on parchment or vellum. Paper appeared in the 1300's, but was considered inferior and would not have been used for important documents. Parchment is a perfect writing material. During the manufacturing process, the surface becomes slightly fluffy. When you write on it, the pen depresses the fluff and forms a "channel" where the ink stays. This makes for excellent detail, perfect serifs and thin lines. Parchment will also last, so all your mistakes will be preserved for remote posterity.

If you really want parchment, it can be bought from Faulkiners Fine Papers in London. They have everything you may need for calligraphy and book binding. However, the price of real parchment is prohibitive for most of us. The same goes for vellum. So we usually have to make do with paper. For practising, use ordinary drawing paper or typewriter paper. Cheap white drawing paper, such as they use in schools, is also good for practise. The paper should not be too glossy, nor too absorbing (like stencil paper). A soft surface makes it easier to write. Some photocopy papers may be difficult to write on because the surface is too hard and it's difficult to get the right ink flow - it's like writing on marble. A too soft surface will absorb so much ink that it dissolves the paper. If the edges of your characters are unclear or uneven, you are probably using a too soft paper.

A higher quality is needed when you are producing a real work of art. There is something called "calligraphy paper" or "parchment paper" which has been treated to look like parchment or very old paper. It is yellowish and veined. It's very stylish and looks nice. But opinions vary on wether you should use it. Some scribes think parchment paper looks nice. It makes our documents look like what we expect real medieval scrolls to look like. The "patina" improves the general impression of the document. And the darker background helps to hide small mistakes. Others say: Your work should be a gleaming new work of art - not some mouldering relic. Another reason not to use "parchment pads" is that they won't last. The quality isn't good enough, and you never know what chemicals they have used to dye it - stuff that might even erode your work. Remember, you are putting many hours of work into this scroll, so you want it to last. I use white, 100% cotton or rag paper of 150-300 grammes weight (per square meter), preferably acid free. White because it's neutral. Cotton or rag because it's durable and of even quality. Acid free isn't strictly necessary, but I recommend it because you don't want residue acid to eat your ink and turn your gold paint green. Water color paper is excellent if you can find one with a reasonably smooth surface. Many water color papers have rough surfaces and are almost impossible to write on. My favorite paper is "Fabriano Artistico Satinata", an Italian papter which is sold in large sheets (22 x 30 inches) and has a smooth surface.

The price of high quality paper may surprise you, but it's worth it. Apparently, the "acid free" feature is what really brings the cost up. You can do without it if you aren't paranoid about chemicals. I am.

Since you are going to paint on most scrolls, it is an advantage to buy your paper in pads, not single sheets. Pads are usually glued at the edges and will stay flat. Single sheets may get warped by the moisture in the paint. There are ways to prevent this, but the process is rather complicated. Using pads is much easier.